Materials:

Your Florida Tile dealer will be happy to assist you in selecting the tile and other materials for your project.  These will include: tile, mastic, mastic solvent, for clean-up, grout and tub caulking.

Gather the following tools before you begin.  The list includes several items commonly found around the house, plus a few special tools you may wish to rent or buy.  Consult your Florida Tile dealer.

1. Measuring Tape (preferably steel) or yardstick.
2. Pencil.  A chalk line can also be useful.
3. Level. A plumb line (a string with a weight tied to the end) will also be needed if your level does not determine vertical lines.
4. Furring Strips: 2"X1/4". Optional, but very helpful.  These must be very straight or their value is lost.  If you use them, you will also need a hammer and 1" finishing nails.
5. 1/8" "V" notched trowel (adhesive spreader)
6. Tile nippers or a pair of strong pliers
7. Pointed trowel, putty knife or old knife
8. Tile cutter, or glass cutter and short length of dowel or coat hanger wire.  Note: Glass cutter will dull quickly.
9. Whetstone for smoothing rough cut edges.
10. Container for mixing grout (1 gallon bucket)
11. Rubber surfaced trowel, squeegee or firm sponge
12. Popsicle sticks, pencil erasers, or tooth brush handles.
13. Polishing cloth (old towels or cloths).
14. Rubber gloves if you wish to use them

With tile and tools at hand you are ready to follow these simple steps to complete a professional looking tile installation.

Surfaces onto which tile may be applied are:

1. Plaster - new, completely dried; or old with paint well scratched to provide enough "grip" to hold tile.
2. Various types of wallboards - walls of this type must be firm, with no warping or "give".  "Dry wall" should be waterproofed if it is not already.
3. Cinderblock
4. Exterior Grade Plywood
5. Smooth Concrete
6. Other - surfaces, such as existing tile, may be tiled over, but they require special treatment.  Talk it over with your Florida Tile Dealer.  Then after following their advice, go ahead.

Any painted walls must be well scratched as mentioned before.
These walls are ready to receive tile when the surface is CLEAN, grease and soap free, WATERPROOF, DRY and FLAT, with no loose particles of paint, plaster, dust, etc.  This may require washing, sanding, scraping or filling.

This involves finding the appropriate horizontal and vertical lines on which to begin applying the tile.
First, use the level to locate the lowest point of the wall you are tiling. Floors and tubs are often uneven. At this point, use the level to draw a perfectly horizontal line one full tile height above the floor or tub line. (Figure 1). 
You may choose to nail a very straight furring strip below and against this line to assist in the even application of tiles and to prevent tiles from slipping out of line and down the surface of the wall.

Use your level or plumb line to draw an exactly vertical line at the "center point" from bottom to top of the area to be tiled (Figure 4).

Decide where to start. If there is an outside corner or edge, start there and go to the inner corner. Otherwise, start at the "center point". Proceed in the order shown (Figure 5). Holding the notched trowel at a 30-450 angle, apply the mastic evenly. Cover only a few square feet at a time Figure 5 until you "get the hang of it." Apply no more than you can cover with tile in 30 minutes. For hard to reach areas, spread mastic on the back of each tile before placement.

Place the tiles carefully, in the order shown (Figure 6). Either flop them up into position from the bottom edge, or press them into place with a slight twist. Too much sliding will force mastic up into the joints. Press firmly into place. Use the level often to check horizontal and vertical alignment of the tiles as you work.

After all whole tiles have been applied, wipe away any mastic in unoccupied spaces. Do not allow it to dry. Allow the tiles to set for 4-5 hours before removing the furring strips (if used) and applying the cut tiles.

Cutting tiles is not difficult. If a tile cutter is not used, scratch the glazed tile surface with a glass cutter and a "straight edge" at the desired cutting line. With glazed side up, lay the tile on top of a dowel (a pencil or coat hanger wire will do). Press downward on both sides of tile for a clean break (Figure 7). Smooth cut edges with the  whetstone. To make curved cuts or notches, mark area to be removed with a pencil. Use tile nippers or pliers to cautiously nip away the waste, a little at a time. If cuts are to be covered by fixture plates, perfection is not required.

To apply a tile completely around a pipe, first cut tile in half, then nip away the space for the pipe (Figure 8).

Remove any mastic on the face of the tiles with mastic solvent or a razor blade. Allow tiles to set at least 24 hours before proceeding with the next step.

Mix the grout according to package instructions.

Use the rubber faced trowel, squeegee or firm sponge to spread grout diagonally across the face of the tile, and thus into the joints (Figure 9). 

Wipe excess grout away with a clean damp sponge. Use a popsicle stick, eraser or toothbrush handle to remove excess grout from joints (Figure 10). Remove any grout that accumulates in the space between tub and tile. This space should be filled with tub caulking to insure a tight, waterproof seal.

After the grout dries enough to form a haze on tile, polish the surface with a dry cloth. To insure the lasting beauty of your tile installation, coat the grout with a silicone sealer to protect it from dirt or discoloration.

And that's all there is to a professional looking tile job.  
So, go ahead and do it!